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When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. But, nestled high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.